Hồ Chí Minh City

Returning to Vietnam since our debut in 2023 felt like a home-away-from-home and way overdue. We’d sadly pushed back and shortened our itinerary after overstaying in Cambodia, but we were determined to make the most of our Vietnamese Adventure 2.0. Sadly, Hồ Chí Minh City (HCMC) became the neglected child again, with only 30 hours to cram in everything we’d missed the first time around. After a very uncomfortable cross-border bus from Phnom Penh, we arrived in the early evening of 9 May with very little energy and patience to hit the ground running. Instead, we did the essentials: pork bun, beer, ATM withdrawal, and a damp evening wander to get our bearings.

As expected, the rain didn’t hold back for our only full day in HCMC. When it rains there, it doesn’t drizzle, it flash-floods. Getting around is tricky and you can feel a little soggy, but we weren’t going to let it stop us. Our first stop was the famous Café Apartments: an old apartment block that’s transformed into a stack of vibrant cafés, boutiques, and dessert spots. It’s one of those places you can’t miss in HCMC. At Madam Quyen Café we tucked into a Vietnamese breakfast of bún thịt nướng (grilled pork over vermicelli noodles, herbs, and fish sauce) and, of course, my all-time favourite, cà phê trứng (egg coffee). It’s not quite as good down South as in the North, but still a strong contender.

Next came the very pink Tân Định Catholic Church. Built in the 1870s, painted pink inside and out since 1957, and standing as one of the most cheerful landmarks in the city. We couldn’t go in, but even from the outside it’s a mood-lifter, and even better that it’s PINK! From there we strolled along Nguyễn Văn Bình, better known as Book Street. It’s a leafy, pedestrian-only lane lined with multi-lingual bookstores and cafés, strung with lanterns and lights for that festive touch. Nestled right between the Notre Dame Cathedral and Central Post Office (both of which we did manage to see last time), it felt like a calm pause in an otherwise busy and wet day.

Our evening was reserved for Chợ Bến Thành, HCMC’s iconic undercover market and shopping labyrinth. You’ll find everything here: produce, fabrics, souvenirs, street food, and the occasional “genuine” designer label. I had one mission: a very real Coach bag. With a strict budget and backpack space to consider, it was time to put my Vietnam-honed bartering skills to the test. Pat scored activewear and a passport holder (very much needed after Cambodia’s shenanigans) and I scored my bag. We rewarded ourselves with bowls of noodles, bánh mì, and fresh juice.

We wrapped up the night at Bùi Viện Walking Street, HCMC’s neon jungle of bars, music, and chaos. Imagine Bangla Road in Phuket (described ever-so-fondly in my Phuket blog), but with cheaper beer and louder speakers. If you’re looking for overpriced drinks, booming bass, and hundreds of people competing to out-party each other, then this place is for you! If you’re looking for a place to watch people buy overpriced drinks, yell over the booming bass, and compete to out-party each other (i.e. live comedy), this place is also for you! We did the only sensible thing: grabbed a Tiger beer and people-watched until the exhaustion won. 

As much as we squeezed into our short time in HCMC, we’ve barely scratched the surface. We still haven’t done the Củ Chi Tunnels, sipped cocktails on a rooftop, taken a Mekong Delta boat trip, visited the Rex Hotel, explored the Reunification Palace (aka the Independence Palace), or even seen a puppet show at the Opera House. Clearly, HCMC is still holding out on us. So, until next time (again), I guess.

Our Beloved Hội An

We arrived in Hội An the next day for a much longer, less crammed stay. This time, we based ourselves at Anh Binh’s Homestay in the Old Quarter, hosted by the lovely Binh and her sister for the week, while we explored corners of Hội An and Central Vietnam that we’d missed the first time around.

First things first: food. We headed straight to Chợ Hội An (the local market) for a fresh street lunch of cao lầu (Hội An’s signature noodle dish made with chewy noodles, slices of roast pork, fresh herbs, and crunchy croutons). Legend has it that the noodles are made using water from the ancient Ba Le well in Hội An, which supposedly gives them their distinct texture. Whether that’s true or just clever marketing, we didn’t care. It was delicious. We also tucked into crispy wontons (deep-fried parcels topped with pork, shrimp, and a sweet salsa-like sauce, sometimes called “Hoi An pizza”) and mì Quảng (a turmeric-flavoured noodle dish with shrimp, pork, fresh herbs, and just a splash of broth, more noodle salad than noodle soup). To wash it down, we devoured fresh strawberry juices, all for about $13 AUD. After all our time in Southeast Asia, we can confidently say Vietnam gives you the best bang for your buck.

Post-lunch, we wandered the lantern-filled streets of Hội An’s Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999. Once a bustling 16th-century trading port connecting merchants from Japan, China, and Europe, today it’s a charming mix of preserved architecture, colourful facades, and more tailor shops than you could ever need. We pointed out shopfronts we hadn’t noticed last time, before settling at a terrace café for, you guessed it, yet another egg coffee while we people-watched. In between our chatter, we’d hear the all-too-familiar Aussie accent in many sets of pairs. It’s obviously the hot spot. Later that evening, in a very un-touristy move, we signed up for a five-day gym pass for $30. After weeks of mostly just lifting chopsticks, it was nice to get those endorphins running again before undoing our hard work with a much-needed Mexican dinner (random, but very necessary).

The next day was slower: a lazy morning coffee at Dudu Café, nails for me, a massage for Pat, and then the long-awaited pilgrimage to Phượng’s Bánh Mì, a sandwich we’ve both been craving since our last visit. To put it simply, this bánh mì has set the standard of all others for us. Anthony Bourdain once called it the best bánh mì in Vietnam, and we wholeheartedly agree. We spent the rest of the day watching lantern boats glide along the Thu Bồn River and rejecting the 2-for-1 cocktail happy hour deals (we were on a health kick this week for some reason, although I can confirm I am not anymore). 

Ba Na Hills

To shake things up, we took a day trip to Bà Nà Hills, a mountaintop theme park and resort near Đà Nẵng that feels like part fantasy land, part theme park on the Gold Coast. Originally built as a French hill station in 1919 for colonials escaping the lowland heat, today it’s part of the Sun World empire. The cable car that takes you up is one of the longest in the world, and at the top you’ll find the now-iconic Golden Bridge, a glittering walkway held up by giant stone hands. Between the foggy mountain views, the towering Buddha at Linh Ứng Pagoda, and sampling a few pints at Sun World Brewery, it was fun, but not sure if it was worth the trip. On our return to Hội An, we made a very scientific comparison stop at Madam Khánh, the “Bánh Mì Queen.” I’ll admit it quietly here: we might have found a bánh mì even better than Phượng’s.

Our Last Day in Hội An

Back in Hội An the next day, we gymmed, showered, and I picked up my custom-made sandals (a must-do if you like real leather shoes that actually fit and last). We then met our fabulous guide, Toan, from Momo Travel for a four-hour food tour around Hội An Old Town. It was pure indulgence. Toan led us through hidden alleys and family-run stalls, explaining the traditions behind each dish as we devoured them: grilled pork and bò lá lốt (beef wrapped in betel leaves, said to bring good luck), bánh mì, crispy “crash cake,” dried coconut, grilled egg, rice paper rolls stuffed with beef and pâté, black sesame sweet soup, chicken rice, bánh xèo pancakes, and even fruit salad. By the end, we were in a full-blown food coma. Honestly, this was our second food tour with Momo Travel, and we loved every bite.

Between Hội An and Hồ Chí Minh City, we were definitely soaking up the very best of Vietnamese culture, cuisine, kindness, and beauty. But the adventure was far from over: Cát Bà, Hà Nội, Hà Giang, and Sa Pa were still waiting for us, ready to be squeezed in before we had to wave goodbye to Vietnam.

P.S. I acknowledge the four-month delay in posting this update. With only three months left of our trip (crazy, I know), my goal is to up the blogging before we return to reality. Thanks for sticking with us!