Ubud, Bali

And just like that, we’re alone and officially traveling the world together. It’s been awfully quiet without Nic and Jake, so we spent most of our time in Ubud debating whether or not they’d enjoy it here. Verdict? Absolutely, yes.

We landed in Denpasar just after midnight on 3 February. After an hour-ish car ride to Wenara Bali Bungalows, we finally crashed at 2:30am, feeling a little guilty for waking up the hotel staff just to grab our room key. Unsurprisingly, we slept in, then rolled out of bed for a late breakfast at Monkey Cave Espresso before heading straight to Ubud’s ultimate right of passage–Ubud Monkey Forest. I know it gets a wrap for being touristy, but honestly, the Ubud Monkey Forest was one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. We spent a couple of hours just watching the monkeys run, climb, jump on unsuspecting humans, tug each other’s tails, play tricks, and cradle their babies like tiny, furry toddlers. The chaos was very entertaining. We even got to meet a monkey up close and personal for a selfie–which was very impressive. Although, it felt so strange considering we’d spent the entire day avoiding eye contact and resisting the urge to touch them (because we didn’t want to get tackled by an angry mumma). Ubud Monkey Forest was a super unique experience and one we will always remember.

We made a quick stop at Circle K (basically 7-Eleven) to stock up on water and to pick up a Guinness in memory of Pat’s beloved Nana, whom we had very recently and devastatingly lost. It was a small but heartfelt tribute, raising a quiet toast to her from Indonesia before we could be with our family. We booked our tours for the next two days through our hotel before heading into Ubud Art Market or as the locals call it, Pasar Seni Ubud. It is our mission to collect a magnet and small artwork from each country, so we can have a magnet wall and artwork collage wherever we settle down. We sifted through endless paintings of rice fields, waterfalls, monkeys, and volcanoes and eventually settled on a tiny but beautiful artwork of Tegallalang rice terraces, which we were visiting the next day. We walked and walked until we finally stumbled upon a local barber for Pat’s long-overdue haircut. It might have been the cheapest but also the most meticulous cut he’s ever had! Safe to say, Pat left looking like hot stuff. 

We settled for dinner at Laughing Buddha Bar, which was delicious but very expensive. The upside? Live music by Akustika, a talented local band, and our first large Bintang beer–both of which made the price tag a little easier to swallow. 

Ubud Sights

The next morning, we started our day with nasi goreng (fried rice) and scrambled eggs at our hotel’s breakfast before being picked up by our driver, Komang, to kick off our Ubud sightseeing tour. Our first stop was the famous Tegallalang rice terraces–or should we say, (p)rice terraces—because, as we quickly learned, nothing here comes free. It’s about $5 AUD to enter, $30 AUD for a swing, and yet another fee to walk around a different section of the fields. We opted for entry and a swing, skipping the extra walking fee. The swing was worth it and lots of fun. We got some amazing photos and soaked in the panoramic views of the lush green terraces.

Next, we stopped at the Luwak Coffee Plantation–yes, home to the coffee made from beans that have been eaten, digested, and passed by civet cats. We were given a tour of the plantation, learning about the unique process of making Luwak coffee. The civets eat only the best coffee cherries, and after digestion, the beans are collected, cleaned, peeled, and roasted to create a supposedly smoother, tastier, and less acidic brew. As we walked past caged civets, I started to feel bad. While some plantations claim to source their beans from wild civets, many actually keep them in small enclosures, force-feeding them coffee cherries to meet demand… After the tour, we were given a coffee and tea tasting, sampling everything from vanilla coffee to turmeric tea and cocoa-infused blends. It wasn’t the best coffee we’ve ever had, but it was an interesting experience nontheless!

Our next stops were Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu and Pura Tirta Empul, two of Bali’s most sacred and beautiful water temples. Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu was peaceful and uncrowded, surrounded by koi ponds, lush greenery, and beautiful fountains. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu god of water, and its serenity made it one of the most relaxing stops of the day. In contrast, Pura Tirta Empul, one of the largest and most important purification temples in Bali, was lively and full of worshippers. The temple’s holy spring water pools are believed to have healing properties, and visitors–both locals and tourists–lined up to take part in the traditional Hindu cleansing ritual. While we didn’t join in the purification ritual, the energy of the place was spiritual and humbling. After battling market vendors outside the temple, we stopped for lunch at Pangkon Bali Resto & Agrotiurism, a traditional Balinese restaurant just up the road from Pura Tirta Empul, where we enjoyed nasi goreng chicken, and sate ayum bumbu kacang (chicken satay), with lots of water, because it was SO. HOT.

After refuelling, our last stop of the tour was Kanto Lampo Waterfall, which, to be honest, just didn’t compare to the stunning waterfalls we had seen in the Philippines. Pat had a quick dip while I snapped a few photos, and decided it wasn’t worth battling the crowds for long. So, after a few minutes, we trekked the 10 minutes back up stairs to the car park, completely drenched in sweat and ready to call it a day. Komang dropped us back to our bungalow mid-afternoon, and we settled for a nap because we needed to be up VERY early the next morning for our hike. We briefly woke for dinner and stopped by Sun Sun, a local and reputable warung (a small Indonesian retail shop or eatery) serving traditional Balinese food for a very affordable price. We came in under budget that day–a much-needed win after splurging on dinner the night before!

Mount Batur

We woke at 1:45am, groggy but ready, as we were picked up for our night hike up Mount Batur–one of Indonesia’s active volcanoes. After stopping at Mount Batur Base Camp to enjoy some fried bananas and coffee, we set off on the bumpy drive to the base of the volcano, where we met our guide and strapped on our headlamps, preparing for our dark ascent. The hike started off gently and we followed a paved road for a couple of kilometres, enjoying the calm before the climb. The trail eventually transformed into a steep climb, with loose volcanic rock and uneven terrain making every step a workout. The only light came from our headlamps and the glow of hundreds of hikers ahead, forming a trail of light up the mountain. We chatted with our groupmates from Copenhagen, Karla and Villads, at each rest stop, bonding over our shared inexperience with hiking. As we neared the summit, our guide proudly told us we were all “very strong, very fit”, which was a nice little confidence boost for the final stretch. We finally reached the summit–a whole hour before sunrise–giving us a little too much time to catch our breath, because it was f*cking freezing up there and Pat and I were SO underdressed (courtesy of completely ignoring the pamphlet’s advice). Our guide mentioned that we were the fastest group he’s ever had, which was great–but, I would’ve happily traded our speed for my jacket, which was sitting uselessly in my backpack back at the hotel. I was seriously impressed by Pat’s stamina hiking up the volcano, especially considering he was still recovering from pneumonia. To be fair, it wasn’t the hardest hike ever, but still–he did well!

We waited and watched as the cheeky monkeys living in the volcano’s crater popped out to steal bread and bananas from unsuspecting hikers–it was quite funny. After a very fresh hour, the sky slowly turned from deep blue to fiery orange, and we were rewarded with a misty panoramic view of Lake Batur and Mount Agung. It was stunning. Apparently, we were the first group in two months to actually see the sunrise, thanks to the wet season. This also meant the sunrise didn’t last long, quickly being covered in thick grey clouds, which prompted our descent. The way down (which was a different route) was much easier physically, although harder on the knees. We jogged down the mountain, slipping a few times on volcanic ash, fuelled by our mission to get back into bed. 

Just when we thought we were almost home, our van pulled into another Luwak coffee plantation… and everyone’s faces dropped. The last thing we needed right then was coffee. Anyway, we pushed through some free tasting and were back in the van within 30 minutes headed for a shower, and very long sleep.

Pat and I enjoyed dinner that night at Honey & Smoke, a beautiful open grill restaurant where we shared some cocktails, fusilli pasta and grilled snapper. YUM!

Ubud to Seminyak, Bali

The next morning, we checked out of our bungalows and were collected early by Komang for our journey to Seminyak, with a quick stop in at Cretya on the way. Cretya is a very luxe pool club with panoramic views of the rice fields. A small breakfast and coffee was all we could afford, but it was enough to enjoy the stunning views and watch the Instagram models strategically set up their tripods, chasing the perfect infinity pool shot. After eating, we wandered into the rice fields, taking in the last of Ubud’s lush greenery before hopping back into our very humid car for the drive to Seminyak.

Seminyak or Sydney?

In all honesty, we did nothing in Seminyak. We wandered through the Flea Markets, lounged at beach clubs, watched the sunset at Petitenget Beach, and ate our way around town–but there’s really nothing exciting to report. 

We didn’t love Seminyak. It felt like a tropical high-end Sydney, just with less impressive beaches and a higher risk of traveler’s diarrhea. That said, we get why people come here–for the luxury stays, trendy pool clubs, buzzing nightlife, and amazing restaurants. But if you’re expecting Bali on a budget–it’s really not much cheaper than home. It’s maybe a great spot if you’re traveling without a daily spend–whether it’s with the girls, the guys, or–best case scenario–Mum and Dad who are offering to pay. lol. 

Bali to Sydney

We caught our flight back to Sydney after four nights in Seminyak, sharing the plane with what felt like a zoo of people drunk on duty-free alcohol and trashing the cabin. We’ve never experienced anything like it. After a long six hours, it was nice to be back home with our families, friends, and puppies, even if only briefly. 

Our full day in Sydney was a beautiful celebration of Nana’s life with our family and friends. It was lovely to share some drinks and stories with everyone, especially given our distance from them in the lead up to the funeral. I even got to catch up with my family and some of my besties and, most importantly, Coby–my pride and joy–who took over my bed for two nights. 

Saying goodbye again was tough, but we’re grateful to have had the chance to see everyone, even under the circumstances, before jetting back to Bali the next day.

We’ll see you for the next blog in Uluwatu!

Love, Coby.