We spent four beautiful nights in Moalboal, Cebu, and we loved every second. After a rather toasty bus ride from Cebu City to Moalboal, we checked in to the most amazing ho(s)tel, Chief Mau, located in the centre, surrounded by beautiful beaches, restaurants, and sights. We (as in Pat) hired motorbikes for ₱375 per day (it’s really the only way to get around the province), and Nicola was brave enough to volunteer as tribute to also learn how to ride. GIRL POWER. As the sun sets really early, we rode down to White Beach in the early evening to sit on the sand, share two litres of Red Horse, and watch the golden sun set over the horizon. It was a nice change of pace from Cebu City and it was refreshing to be back at the beach. We shared delicious sushi for dinner and planned out our two-hour trek down the coast the following day.

Dao Falls + Impromptu Inambakan Falls

Bright and early, with me as Nicola’s passenger and Jake as Pat’s, we hopped on the bikes to find some waterfalls (as Cebu is known for its natural falls and mountainous ranges). What we expected to be a one-hour drive turned into a couple of hours on the back of a motorbike. (Note to those traveling to the Philippines: always double the estimated travel time on the map!)

We arrived at Dao Falls mid-morning and tipped a local guide to help us trek to the main fall. It was a small but beautiful waterfall, and we had the entire place to ourselves—so peaceful. With no set plan, we decided to track down Inambakan Falls, which took some time after a few detours and swear words by my driver (Nicola). Eventually, we found an entry point and ended up joining an impromptu canyoneering adventure with T & P Canyoneering. We were the only group there, and our personal guides, Dexter and “The King,” made the experience even more incredible, capturing photos and videos for us along the way. It was an unforgettable adventure with so many laughs, a few fears conquered (especially for me), and even a 10-meter cliff jump that I somehow worked up the courage to do. Without a doubt, Inambakan Falls was the highlight of our entire trip to the Philippines—we can’t recommend it enough!

Once we had dried off and changed back into our motorbike attire, we began the two-hour ride back to Moalboal. I am convinced that being a passenger on a motorbike is way harder than being the driver—my ass was so sore, I thought it was going to fall off. I can’t really complain, though—I didn’t have to drive. We took it easy that evening and had a delicious dinner at Hungry Monkeys, indulging in Filipino spring rolls, noodles, stir-fry, and frozen margaritas. I was still on a mission to find the best frozen marg in the Philippines—no real winner yet. Exhausted from our unexpectedly massive day, we were in bed early (which seemed to be a trend for us), ready for our adventure the next morning.

Kawasan Falls & Meeting New Friends

We were collected by the Kawasan Falls Canyoneering minivan at 8:30am, after a breakfast of smoothie bowls and avo toast. Kawasan Falls is like the Disneyland of waterfalls in Cebu, and we had this tour in mind since Sydney. The highly anticipated adventure was a whirlwind of sliding, slipping, swimming, swinging, and swallowing way too much water along the way (luckily, it was fresh)! Given its popularity, Kawasan Falls was SO busy–our tour guide confirmed that around 800 people visit the falls every day. 

Nic, Jake, Pat, and I were lucky to be allocated a group of super experienced, supportive, and hilarious Filipino tour guides who made our day at Kawasan Falls even more fun. Each waterfall came with a surprise—we never knew whether we’d be sliding down a rock face backwards or jumping off an eight-meter cliff. While it was canyoneering in its truest form, it felt so different from the day before at Inambakan Falls. It was way more chaotic, but equally fun and beautiful. I tell you what, though—it’s bloody exhausting.

After making it back to Kawasan base camp, we were treated to a delicious Filipino lunch of pancit (noodles), chopsuey (a mix of meat with steamed vegetables), spring rolls, fried chicken, rice, and iced tea. With full bellies and tired bodies, we headed back to Moalboal for a crisp Coke Zero, a well-deserved shower, and afternoon nap. 

We reconvened for sunset drinks at Ester’s Bar, followed by Veranda Kitchen and Bar, where I officially had the best frozen marg in the Philippines. We played Presidents and Assholes until dinner at My Greek Taverna, where we shared pita, hummus, and gyros. As the night was still young–and we realised we hadn’t gone out to properly “party” in the entire two weeks–we decided it was time to be social and headed to the hostel common area for a few games of pool. It turned out to be so worthwhile. We met Alex from France, James from the UK, other James from Perth (our first and favourite Aussie we met), Jordan from the UK, other Alex from Northern Ireland, and Anna from Sweden. After some rounds of pool and funny conversation, we all made our way to Chilli’s, a nightclub in Moalboal, to dance the night away in a 40-degree sweat box. We didn’t last very long in the heat, but it was so much fun, and definitely a core memory.

Maxo Relaxo

Our final day in Moalboal was spent exactly how a true holiday should be—relaxing and soaking up the last moments in our favourite spot. Nicola and Pat went for an early run to beat the heat, while Jake and I opted for a sleep-in.

We all met at the front beach to snorkel and witness the famous “sardine run”. It was truly one of the most incredible things I’ve ever seen—thousands of sardines swirling just off the coast of Moalboal year-round, thanks to the abundant plankton in the shallow waters and their instinct to protect themselves in massive numbers. It was surreal to swim into the shimmering school of fish and watch them part around you. I wish we had it on camera. You’ll just have to trust us.

In an effort to escape the UV, we headed to breakfast while deciding our plans (or no real plans) for the day. We all lounged around before Nicola and I went for a massage, which put us straight to sleep—so naturally, a nap followed. Meanwhile, Pat rode down to White Beach for a swim before teaching Jake how to ride the motorbikes, as we’d need them at our next stop. I spent some time at Chief Mau bar, enjoying calamari and a Coke while finishing our previous blog. Nicola continued resting, the boys played darts, and I got my nails done before we headed out for our final dinner at Three Bears. It was a quiet night spent re-packing before our departure to Siquijor the next morning—a journey that has to be the dumbest, longest, and most painful route in the Philippines (maybe second to the first ferry).

We made it—though, not without a few challenges. But hey, character building, right? Stay tuned for the next blog… it’s not quite as glamorous.