We really feel like Laos didn’t get the attention it deserved. It became the casualty of our trip for two reasons: it got squeezed into the shortest itinerary (thanks again to Cambodia), and we were absolutely knackered after Vietnam. What was once a three-week itinerary was slashed to just six days, four nights in Luang Prabang and two in the capital, Vientiane. It meant a lot of destinations got the cut, which was a shame. In hindsight, we probably should’ve saved Laos for another trip and done it properly, but alas, here are the highlights (and low-lights).

Luang Prabang

We stayed right in the heart of Luang Prabang’s Old Quarter, which was almost suspiciously peaceful. It’s one of the most relaxed places we’ve ever visited, full of wooden houses, draped in lanterns, flowers, and fairy lights. We arrived after a long travel day from Hanoi via Ho Chi Minh City, just in time to get a foot massage (which wasn’t very good) and catch the local markets before they closed. We wandered through stalls selling handmade crafts, artwork, clothes, Laos delicacies, textiles, magnets and keyrings made from recycled bomb metal from the Secret War. We ended the night with far too many khanom krok (coconut rice pancakes), made by Laotian ladies who pour coconut cream and rice flour batter into hot half-moon moulds, then top them with sugar before serving them hot; crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. Heaven.

The next day was mostly spent catching up on admin over coffees in cute local cafés until it was time for the most important event of the week: State of Origin. Trying to stream it in Laos was definitely a challenge. There were no pubs airing the game (one promised it would, but it didn’t work), so we ended up crammed in a pub, huddled around Pat’s iPad with a bunch of Aussies and Kiwis, yelling at the screen. Many a Beer Lao were shared, and somehow the night ended at a ten-pin bowling alley (apparently the nightlife hotspot in Luang Prabang?) It was random, cheap, and fun.

The following morning, we had a tour booked to Kuang Si Waterfalls, probably the most stunning waterfalls we’ve ever seen, but the timing could not have been worse. We were catastrophically hungover. Our hike up 570 stairs to the top was rough, but we told ourselves we couldn’t come all this way and not complete the mission. When we finally reached the top, we discovered the café only sold noodles and coffee (the instant kind).

On the way back, our driver insisted we stop at a famous coffee spot, mostly because we didn’t have the heart (or strength) to say no, before grabbing a late pizza lunch back in town. That evening, we hiked up Mount Phousi to visit Wat Chom Si, a small golden temple perched at the top of the hill offering panoramic views over the city and the Mekong River. It was relatively underwhelming, but we’ll blame it on the overcast skies.

A definite highlight of Luang Prabang was our final dinner at Tamarind: A Taste of Laos, which offered a crash course in traditional Laotian flavours. It started with an infused lao lao shot (rice whisky that burned your throat just by smelling it) followed by a chunky bamboo and vegetable soup, a platter of local specialties with sticky rice (Luang Prabang sausage, dips, relishes (jeow), buffalo jerky, and other local favourites), herbed fish steamed in banana leaf and lemongrass, and purple sticky rice for dessert. Everything was explained in detail so we could understand the origins and significance of the food. It was one of those meals that made us properly appreciate Laos and its unique cuisine. 

Asia’s Sleepiest Capital

We made our way to Vientiane, Laos’ capital city, for the final stop of our whirlwind six-day visit. We didn’t have huge expectations for Vientiane. It’s often described as one of the sleepiest capitals in Asia, but we actually found it really charming in its own way.

Our first stop in Vientiane was Pha That Luang, the city’s golden stupa and Laos’ most important national monument. Standing tall and gleaming in the sun, it’s said to represent both Buddhist and Laotian identity. According to legend, the stupa enshrines a relic of the Buddha’s breastbone, making it one of the most sacred sites in the country. Surrounded by monks in bright orange robes and locals offering flowers and incense, it felt peaceful yet powerful. Even though we’d seen countless temples by this point in our travels, this one was definitely unique. It’s also much bigger in person than it looks in photos.

After exploring, we ducked into Nuan Restaurant for lunch, a modern Asian fusion spot serving Chinese-style dishes. We ordered rice, crumbed cutlets, dumplings, and wontons. It was simple, delicious, and easily one of our favourite meals in Laos.

One of the most moving parts of our time in Vientiane was visiting the COPE Visitor Centre. It’s a small but powerful museum that tells the story of Laos’ unexploded ordnance crisis, a result of the “Secret War” when, during the Vietnam War, the United States dropped over two million tons of bombs on Laos, averaging one plane load every eight minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years. It makes Laos the most bombed country per capita in the world. The centre provides prosthetics and rehabilitation support for those injured by unexploded “bombies”, including people who still fall victim today while farming or working in rural fields. The exhibits were both heartbreaking and inspiring. It reminded us of the resilience of the Laotian people and the importance of learning the history behind the places you visit.

We ended the day at the Vientiane Night Market, buzzing as locals shopped, kids ran around, and street vendors flipped skewers and pancakes. We picked a stir fry, veggies, rice, and Beer Lao, and reminisced over our almost six months in Southeast Asia. It was our final night to enjoy everything that makes this region so special: rich history, vibrant culture, the kindest souls, delicious food, cheap beer, humidity, the background buzz of motorbikes, and organised chaos.

Vientiane may not be the most exciting city we’ve visited, but it had a quiet authenticity we really enjoyed. It was the perfect place to wind down and send off our Southeast Asian adventure before heading to South Korea!