ALL ABOARD!

The final bell rang just as I was running back from the convenience store, snacks in hand, ready to depart from Chiang Mai to Bangkok via the infamous sleeper train.

Our first impressions were actually quite positive. The seats were clean, spacious, and had plenty of storage for our bags. Almost immediately, our train conductor came around and began making up our beds for the 12-hour journey ahead. I, noble as ever, took the top bunk while Cass settled in below. We said goodnight and tried to get some sleep… or so we thought.

Tossing and turning throughout the night as the train abruptly jolted along the tracks (we genuinely thought we’d come off them at some points), we finally arrived at our destination. Between us, we probably got a total of four hours of sleep. It was definitely the worst sleep of the trip, if not ever.

We were glad to be back on our feet, though our moods were… less than stellar. Things only got worse when we realised we couldn’t check into our accommodation until 2:00pm and it was only 7:00am. We were a little lost at first, unsure of what to do with so little places open at that time. We were approached by a Thai man who asked us where we were from and how long we’d be visiting Thailand. When we didn’t want to follow him to his taxi (like the sensible and aware travellers we are), he called us “f*cking idiots” over and over again. Anyway, after that pleasant encounter, we found a café, grabbed a coffee to lift our spirits, and chatted with the owner, who kindly gave us the rundown and some helpful tips about Bangkok (including the Muvmi rideshare app, which offers electrical tuk-tuks at a cheaper price).

Later that morning, we explored a nearby shopping centre, and believe me when I say we barely scratched the surface, the place was massive. We wandered through the retail stores (which were all too expensive for our budget) and eventually made our way to the food court. We enjoyed some lunch followed by a choc-chip cookie (again, trying to lift our spirits). Honestly, we were just killing time until we could check into our hotel. The day was a right-off.

As soon as we got the keys to our room, we were out cold.

Feeling human again after a few hours of sleep, we were ready to take on the night. Next stop: Chinatown! Bangkok is home to the world’s largest Chinatown, so naturally, we had to check it out. Neon lights lit up the streets, and food stalls stretched as far as the eye could see. It’s an absolute dream for any foodie. Deciding where to eat was our biggest challenge. After being pulled in every direction, we landed at a busy Chinese corner restaurant. We perched ourselves on tiny plastic chairs, the kind you’d expect at an 8-year-old’s birthday party (a common sight here) and indulged in garlic scallops, squid stir fry, and rice, paired with $2 beers. Honestly, the best pairing we’d had in a while.

After dinner, we wandered the streets in search of dessert (there’s always room for dessert… tehe). An ice cream in the shape of a dragon closed out our night perfectly. 

Day 2

I braved the early heat and went for a run around Bangkok. The humidity was brutal, but it was nice to see the surrounding landmarks from a different perspective. After I got back, we headed out to explore the nearby temples, which hold deep cultural significance in the Buddhist world.

After a sweaty walk to the Grand Palace, we arrived at the front, only to be told I needed to wear long pants to enter (my fault for not researching). Luckily, a kind lady on the street came to my rescue (along with 20 others selling pants to tourists like me). I got the pants and they were… tight, but now a valuable addition to my luggage.

Inside, the Grand Palace lived up to its name. Gold-plated leaves adorned soaring structures with intricate details that left us speechless. We wandered the site for ages. The palace has been an official residence of Thai royalty since 1782 and is still used for royal ceremonies and state functions.

Next up: Wat Phra. This UNESCO-recognised site is one of Bangkok’s oldest and largest temples. It is full of beautiful pagodas, both large and small. Here also lies Thailand’s largest reclining Buddha, measuring at a huge 46 meters long and 15 meters high, symbolising the transition into Nirvana. It was quite impressive seeing it showcased in a protective shrine-like room.

After a rewarding day immersed in Buddhist culture, which is practiced by over 90 percent of the Thai population, we were exhausted. We stopped for a traditional lunch nearby, then headed back to our room to cool off, and more importantly, to get my pants off (lol).

Dinner crept up on us, and we were off again! This time, to Banthat Thong Road (seriously, mark this place down). Lined with diners and dessert bars, you could spend weeks here and still not try everything. We went for more Thai food (shock horror): Pork Pad Thai and Khao Soi, which was a delicious start to our little food adventure. After dinner, we somehow found room for dessert again: burnt butter toast topped with ice cream and caramel (unreal), followed by mini pancakes smothered in chocolate.

We had to head home. My eyes were wandering, thinking “What’s next?”

Day 3

After a little sleep-in, we headed to Lumpini Park, which is Bangkok’s version of Central Park. This place is known for its monitor lizard inhabitants. If you’ve been following our journey, you’ll know I’ve had a previous encounter with monitor lizards that scarred me. So, this was basically free exposure therapy. Surprisingly, I was excited to see them again now that I knew they were harmless. It was surreal watching them roam the paths, bathe in the lake, or chill on the banks. Cass and I strolled through the park, even renting a duck-shaped pedal boat (which was honestly kind of boring). After only 6,000 steps, we’d seen the whole park.

Navigating the Thai bus system, we hopped on a local bus which was a ”ride” in itself. The bus doesn’t fully stop; it just slows down and you have to jump on. You pay the conductor mid-roll and off you go. Very efficient! After our park adventure, we were back on Banthat Thong Road (we couldn’t stay away). We discovered a Michelin-rated restaurant, and enjoyed the tastiest flat fried noodles we’ve ever had. I want to go back just thinking about it.

Cass went hunting for a nail salon while I tried to get a massage, but neither of us had any luck. So, we returned to the hotel to escape the heat and book our bus to Cambodia.

The evening was a whirlwind. We dined at an authentic Thai (also Michelin Guide) restaurant that’s been operating for over 20 years. Mid-dinner, we realised we still needed to apply for our Cambodian visas… Panic set in. Cambodia’s immigration website stated that the visa processing my take up to three business days. So, we didn’t know whether to risk it and apply for the visas, or change our plans and stay longer in Bangkok. You best believe we went ahead and applied anyway. We had already booked the bus for the next day!

A bit of research calmed us down: you can get a visa on arrival… but you need a passport-style photo. Of course, Cass (being the A-type planner) had several. Me? Not one. We rushed to the shops at 10:00pm (lucky everything is open late in Bangkok). After getting lost, we finally found a place that could print ID photos. Cass snapped one of my beautiful face, and we were sorted (sort of). 

We wrapped up our stay in Thailand with a mini food tour of our favourite desserts: mango sticky rice and lava cakes. Full and happy, we rolled into bed in a deep food coma. Not a bad way to end the night.

Oh, but the hiccups weren’t over…

Although we received our e-visas en route to Cambodia, we quickly learned we needed a printed A4 copy (for some reason only known to Cambodian immigration). With only the digital versions, we had to pay an immigration worker to print them. We only had Euros, so… yeah, that became the most expensive sheet of paper we’ve ever owned. Still, the immigration guy was thrilled with his new Euros.

Overall, Bangkok was incredible. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see as much as we’d hoped, but we’ll be back. Maybe next time with a bit more money (lol). A bustling, cultura, and historical city, well worth the visit!